Kohl, known for its use by the ancient Egyptians as eyeliner, provides key evidence of cosmetic developments and influences throughout ancient global history. It represents a standard of beauty and an appreciation for personal adornment attributed to the ancient Egyptians. The distinctive cat-eye pattern coined by the ancient Egyptians endures as a cosmetic trend in the modern era, however, its influence and significant global connections stem from trade and complex exchanges of visual culture between the Egyptians, their immediate neighbours, and eventually a vast majority of the Silk Road.
Kohl Jar, New Kingdom, ca. 1492–1473 B.C.
Kohl itself is a simple combination of ground lead sulphide, soot, or galena with oils or animal fat. This recipe evolved in different regions including the Indian-subcontinent, Persia, and the Mediterranean. The mixture was then stored in small containers paired with stick-like applicators. Although there is no surviving kohl from ancient Egypt or any region it spread to, archeologists and historians have gained extensive evidence of its significance, uses, and origins. This is thanks to the multitude of surviving cosmetic utensils crafted and exported by the ancient Egyptians. The Metropolitan Museum of Art is home to several ancient Egyptian cosmetic artifacts, among them are a kohl jar and stick dated to the New Kingdom, c. 1492-1473. The jar and stick are a pair, excavated from the tomb of Hatshepsut in 1936 by the Egyptian Expedition of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. As observed in the images provided by the MET, this particular pair of cosmetic utensils is simple in its materials, sleek, curved design, and unpainted finish. It is important to note that motifs depicting a variety of animals and representations of religious practices or deities would often be inscribed on one’s personal kohl jar. While these inscriptions are absent on this particular jar, it is still significant in helping cultivate an understanding of the perspectives and considerations of beauty in ancient Egypt. It is clear that kohl was primarily used for beautification purposes, however, it provided much beyond the likes of presentability. Its medicinal properties protected the wearer from the numerous eye diseases native to the Nile region. Kohl also acted as an effective sunblock under the scorching desert sun. Additionally, kohl also had religious and hierarchical ties with patterns worn by those of a higher status being more recognizable.
Kohl heavily influenced the beauty standards within ancient Egypt, becoming a mainstream trend that persisted for essentially the entirety of ancient Egyptian rule. It was uncommon for anyone, man or woman, rich or poor, to be without kohl of some kind, and alongside their kohl, a personal jar and applicator. Through the powerful influence Egypt has on the Mediterranean, Levant, and Indus Valley regions, kohl was spread far and wide, eventually establishing itself as a common aesthetic practice in several cultures. This exchange can be observed through art, visual culture, and the discovery of similar kohl jars across the Silk Road. Over time, each evolving culture deterred from the classic Egyptian patterns and established looks of their own, often combining their own traditional styles with that of the Egyptians. Essentially, a crossover of cosmetic practices and styles to meet the constantly evolving beauty standards. For these reasons, ancient Egyptian kohl was enormously influential and fostered global connections and exchanges in ideas regarding beauty in the ancient world.
